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Weekend Warrior
Three days afoot in Wuxi
By Darren Taylor
Wuxi is a pleasant relief from its neighbor of Shanghai.
Where Shanghai is congested, rushed, and racing past modernity, Wuxi preserves |
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its long history in a relaxing, uncrowded setting. It's where you go when you want a break from the city, without going too far from the city.
The area around Shanghai, where Anhui, Jiangsu, and Zhejiang provinces meet is known as the Jiangnan area. It is based around the Chang Jiang, or Yangtze River. The culture and the dialects here are known as Wu. Archaeological evidence indicates that it began 5,000 to 6000 years ago.
This city's name may derive from an ancient, now unknown language. Most people however, believe Wuxi means "no tin," a reference to local tin supplies that were depleted in the Han Dynasty (206 to 220 A.D.)
This rather dull name is a stark contrast to the fame that Wuxi achieved both as an industrial center in the 1930s ！ alongside Hong Kong and Shanghai ！ and as a center of traditional beauty.
The Emperor Qianlong, who reigned during the Qing Dynasty (1616-1911), was regarded as the most well-traveled man of his time. He found Wuxi to be a highlight of his official inspections of the Jiangnan area. In particular, he praised the Ji Chang garden, Second Spring Under Heaven and the Huishan Temple.
Despite being renowned for its beautiful gardens and view of Taihu (Tai Lake), it wasn't officially opened to tourism until the 1970s.
Wuxi's layout creates a comforting balance of nature and urbanization, ensuring that your trip will be neither crowded nor rushed.
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From Shanghai, the train to Wuxi is about 31 yuan. The five-star Taihu Hotel is your best bet for a pleasant and hassle free stay. If you arrive at night, there will be a beautiful surprise awaiting you in the morning. After a continental breakfast buffet, head out of the lobby and look over the railing. Extending out for a hundred feet or so is a gorgeous marble fountain, surrounded by abundant greenery. The trees and lawns stretch to the lakefront. One could spend a good deal of time here wandering the peaceful paths of the hotel estate. |
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Day one
1.Head around the edge of the lake to the Turtle Head Peninsula (taxi: 20 yuan, 15 minutes). Guo Moruo, a great figure of early modern Chinese literature, said that here was centered the legendary beauty of the Taihu. Wander along the lakeside and out to the "turtle head" itself. The gardens are all highly representative of Chinese garden designs. After an hour or so, you will make it to the other side. Near the gates, rest areas serve fresh green tea and snacks.
2.Next, enter into Chin's infinitely long history at the Three Kingdoms and Water Margin city (taxi: 15 yuan, 10 minutes) Basically, this is a huge re-creation of two novels of the four main classics of Chinese literature.
Start by catching the Three Kingdoms re-enactment. The battle for control of China between the Wei, Wu and Shu kingdoms is re-enacted by talented horseback performers, demonstrating warrior-level riding and weapons skill.
Then head over to the boats for a ride on the lake with musical accompaniment. From the deck, you'll get a great view of re-created archer towers and other city defenses. Or, go below to see a variety of classical Chinese singers and dancers showing off the local Wu style.
After cruising the lake, come back for a walk through Water Margin City. When you're ready for lunch, stop at the Sun Shang Xiang Restaurant. Go to the Liangshan mountain, where many peasants went to escape the despotic emperor Huizhong and, in the process, became legendary heroes. The mountain is complete with a huge gate and defensive structures, and gives you
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a feel of how the fictional peasant rebels lived.
Come back down the mountain and head to several ancient and somber temples.
There are still a few spots left to see, and if you're thirsty, stop for some tea at Wang Po's teahouse.
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3.Next is the Nanchan Temple (taxi 50 yuan, 25 minutes). Built in 547 B.C., it has been home to many famous monks, and was a place of worship for the emperor. It is thought by Chinese people to be very lucky. Its main attraction is the pagoda of Fabulous Light.
4.When it's time to eat, head downtown to Pedestrian Street (located right outside the temple), where you will find a lane with all kinds of snack offerings, as well as many fine restaraunts to choose from. After you're full, or between snacks, there is a lot of shopping to do.
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Day two
1. After breakfast, spend the morning at Ling Shan Giant Buddha, the "Eastern Buddha" of China (taxi: 100 yuan, 30 minutes) It is nearly 300 feet tall. The area where it is located features a re-creation of the life of Buddha. First you will see a marvelous fountain show based on the birth of Buddha. As you are watching the show, you can refresh yourself with a drink from the mouths of the Phoenixes that guard |
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the Buddha. After the show, you will be ready to carry on to the next stage: the many evils of Buddha's life, depicted in a golden mural. While you survey the lustful maidens and malicious demons surrounding him, be sure to feed the pigeons.
Stop for a prayer at the next stage, or a photo with the Buddha's giant and benevolent hand.
Once you make it up the steps, you will begin to appreciate the massiveness of Buddha. If not for the fresh air, plentiful greenery and beautiful layout, you might feel tired. But all this, plus the prospect of reaching the giant himself, will be wholly invigorating.
When you finally reach the Buddha's feet, give the statue a good deal of rubbing for luck and health. And then turn around, survey the long trek you've just made, and get a good view of the surrounding city.
You should be ready for lunch by now, so head on over to Ling Shan Vegetarian Restaurant (Ling Shan Su Shi Guan), conveniently located right in the park itself. This is mainly a vegetarian restaurant but there is plenty of seafood and meat. The vegetarian dishes showcase the unique talent of Chinese monks to satisfy carnivorous tastes with nothing more than beans and spices. SkepticalTry the vegetarian ham, duck, salmon and shrimp cakes (shao mai).
2.Walk off the meal at Huishan Temple (taxi: 70 yuan, 35 minutes). After you pass the monsters guarding the entrance, you'll be overwhelmed by the flowers that fill the lane.
As you stroll through the Jichang garden, stop and listen to traditional Wuxi folk musicians play their songs. Pick up a CD or two if you like what you hear. The narrow rock path has its own geometrical beauty and leads you to the pond that has inspired emperors.
Located in the Huishan Temple is the Second Spring under heaven. While it has been out of use for years, it is still preserved in its original form. Stop by the Huishan Clay Figurine store and buy some of the traditional cutesy figures, or ask to have your own face sculpted while you wait. (It doesn¨t take long at all.) If you have time afterward, you can rent little boats and ride around in a nearby pond. (10 yuan an hour).
3.Your last stop will be the former residence of Xue Fu Cheng (taxi: 10 yuan, 10 minutes).Learn about this famous diplomat, who proved his brilliance as a military strategist as well as a treaty negotiator.
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The focal points of this classical estate are the back rooms originally used as private bedrooms for the family. They're now an exquisitely decorated restaurant surrounding a red-lantern lit courtyard. Here you can have more seafood, as well as Wuxi's delicious mini pork buns and the richly sweet Wuxi Ribs. |
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| 4. After dinner, there's still time. So try some of Wuxi's nightlife at Babyface, a popular bar (taxi: 10 yuan, 10 minutes). It's near the Baoli Department store and the Sheraton Wuxi Hotel & Towers. |
Day three
1. Your first stop is the Hui Hill Clay Figurine Street. Here you will find the studio of Zhao Jian Gao, a master clay sculptor who is single-handedly struggling to preserve the sculptural traditions of Wuxi (taxi: 35 yuan, 20 minutes). There are dozens of beautiful sculptures on display, as well as dozens more for sale. In the back, visit the sculptors themselves in the workshop.
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2. Time for some scenic pictures at the Qingming Bridge (taxi: 25 yuan, 20 minutes). The bridge overlooks a beautiful canal. Crossing the bridge, you can wander around a residential area a hundred or so years old. It¨s a good way to get a feel for how the locals live in older, less modernized areas. Vendors line the alleys, selling fish that flap in little tubs of water, fresh vegetables and many spices.
3. Next go to see the Jade Spring Treasure Pearl store (taxi: 35 yuan, 20 mintes). After a demonstration explaining how pearls are made, check out the beautiful cultivated and natural pearls, as well as pearl products, like creams and lotions. Whether buying for yourself or that special someone, travelers will definitely want to make sure they have enough money to pick up some necklaces.
4. After learning about Pearls, find out about the local culture of teapot sculpting at the Purple Clay Teapot Exhibition Center. It is located at 9 West Shuishan road, in Binhu district. (taxi: 9 yuan, 8 minutes). From the clay to the artistic designing of the pots, you will be entertained by the guide's explanations.There are many unique styles of pots for sale, which are suited for coffee lovers just as much as tea drinkers.
After this, you will have a thorough feel for Wuxi. Head back to the Pedestrian Street for last minute souvenirs or other shopping needs. Then head back to the Taihu Hotel to review your collection of recently purchased treasures, or just crash.
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