Fields of grain ripple in the warm summer wind. Birds call from the trees, and bees hover lightly over bright flowers. Under billowing white clouds, farmers work the fields and cattle graze in grassy pastures. As children play, warm country music drifts from pavilions. But this isn’t an episode of “Little House on the Prairie.” This is life in rural Henan.
　　Henan is Kansas’ sister province, and the two are strikingly similar. Both have rich and colorful histories. From Dwight D. Eisenhower to Kublai Khan, from Meriwether Lewis and William Clark to Marco Polo, these regions have seen their share of historical heavyweights.
　　Like the Sunflower State, Henan has a quiet, natural beauty — a subtle magnificence.
　　Much as the Mississippi and Missouri rivers nurtured Middle America, the Yellow River has cradled Henan. Both states have climates that make them ideal places for agriculture. In fact, Henan is also called Zhongyuan or Zhongzhou, which literally translates to “central plains” or “middle land.” Both states are known as the “breadbaskets” of their countries. Henan is China’s primary producer of grain — including wheat, jute and sesame — has abundant fruit trees, and is third in the nation in the production of beef.
　　Unlike Kansas’ relatively brief history, Henan began to flourish more than a millennium ago. The great river and the plains that it feeds long ago created an agricultural powerhouse, and may perhaps be credited with the birth of Chinese civilization. Several archaeological sites point to the rise of civilization as long ago as 3,000 years.
　　For roughly half of China’s history, seven full dynasties and the reign of Kublai Khan, the area now known as Henan was the center of the country’s culture and power. A very young Marco Polo first met “The Great Khan” in Kaifeng, Henan, in the mid-17th century. In the past two decades or so, more open trade policies and a growing tourist industry have been extremely effective in revitalizing Henan, revealing it as far more than farmland.
　　Travel to Henan was once a challenge, but recent construction has dramatically improved transportation to and within the region. There are now two railways (the Jingguang Railway that runs from Beijing to Guangzhou and the Longhai Railway that runs from Lianyungang to Lanzhou) that pass through Zhengzhou, the capital of the province. In addition, the Zhengzhou-Xinxiang Expressway transects Henan from north to south, also linking the region with Beijing and Shenzhen. Finally, you can fly into Xinzheng Airport.
　　If you visit in the summer, be prepared for rain—lots and lots of rain. In the autumn, expect clear skies and warm days. Winter and spring tend to be dry, windy and cool. But do remember that, like the weather in the heartland of the United States, Henan’s weather can be just as whimsical.
　　Much as rural America gave birth to country music, Henan has its own brand of local folk singing, referred to by a highfalutin name: opera.
　　In both regions, local music rose in popularity because it was accessible by the everyday person. During the Ming dynasty, many dramatic performances were dominated by lofty themes and heavily costumed and made-up actors. Henan opera returned the art to the people. It pared back the makeup, rounded out the stories, and made the tales more down-to-earth. Today, Henan opera relies on tried and true themes of love, honor and betrayal, and is known for having complete storylines (in both comic and dramatic subjects).
　　Like middle America, Henan is known for wholesome, home-cooked fare — but with an unmistakable oriental twist. Simple ingredients grown locally and combined with easily obtained herbs and seasonings provide such unique offerings as Xinyang duncai (stewed vegetables) and Luoyang Shuixi (literally the Luoyang water table).
　　The water table or water feast is a 24-course dining experience consisting entirely of soups. It’s an amazing tapestry of sights, smells and savory flavors that blend to create a true culinary adventure. In Chinese lore, the water feast came about when an enterprising chef decided to impress Empress Wu Zetian with a turnip creation. He blanched the turnip, julienned it, then pickled it with delicate cuts of vegetables and the finest seafood delicacies. The empress reportedly loved it. Other soups were added, and the dish evolved over time, eventually becoming the water feast.
　　The meal is notable because the courses are served in succession — like flowing water. Most Chinese cuisine is served by placing all the courses on the table at the same time. It is said that the number of courses corresponds to the number of years that Empress Wu — the only female emperor in ancient Chinese history — sat on the throne.
　　The water table or water feast is a 24-course dining experience consisting
entirely of soups. It’s an amazing tapestry of sights, smells and savory flavors that blend to create a true culinary adventure. In Chinese lore, the water feast came about when an enterprising chef decided to impress Empress Wu Zetian with a turnip creation. He blanched the turnip, julienned it, then pickled it with delicate cuts of vegetables and the finest seafood delicacies. The empress reportedly loved it. Other soups were added, and the dish evolved over time, eventually becoming the water feast.
　　The meal is notable because the courses are served in succession — like flowing water. Most Chinese cuisine is served by placing all the courses on the table at the same time. It is said that the number of courses corresponds to the number of years that Empress Wu — the only female emperor in ancient Chinese history — sat on the throne.
　　But the fun does not end with the food. With a little hunting, the souvenir seeker will find satisfaction in Henan. Look for Junci, a type of porcelain known for having unusual coloration, in Yuzhou. Zhenping produces lovely jade carvings, and Tang sancai (earthenware figures made in the Tang Dynasty style) can be found in Luoyang.
　　Sports fans can take two routes: as participants or spectators. The Chinese Basketball Association has a team here, the Henan Dragons, and the Henan Jianye soccer team is the Chinese Football Association’s representative. Soccer is the country’s most popular sport, but basketball has gained a huge following, particularly among young people. Bowling, billiards, tennis, golf and racquetball are all gaining in popularity, even if they are still considered sports of the well-to-do.
　　Gardeners will want to travel between April and May, because that is when the annual peony show is held in Luoyang. The event features fabulous specimens of the national flower, revered for its beauty and persistence. The peony’s place in Chinese culture is said to have come about because the wife of a great emperor was something of a tyrant and demanded that everything be just so in her garden. All of the flowers and plants were said to have bowed to her will — except the peony. It refused to bloom. The emperor’s wife was enraged, and she demanded that the persnickety plants be torn from the ground and moved to another palace. After they were torn up, the flowers grew back and bloomed, unwilling to submit to the woman’s caprice. Since that time, the flower has been thought of as a symbol for defiance and personal strength.
　　But enough of scratching the surface of Henan. The province has three principal cities and areas of tourist interest: Kaifeng, Zhengzhou, and Luoyang. Each has distinct attractions and character.
KAIFENG
　　Although technology has changed it, Kaifeng has retained a humble identity. Each day, the fruit vendors ply their wares, old couples walk the same streets arm in arm as they have since they were young, and teachers instruct students in the art of the hulu (an ancient musical instrument made with a bottle gourd).
Kaifeng was the historic capitol of Henan and the place where young Marco Polo, his father, Niccolo, and his uncle Maffeo first had an audience with Kublai Khan. For part of the 11th century, it was thought to be the largest city on earth, with a population that might have reached 700,000.
　　History can be found on every corner. Qing dynasty buildings stand among modern structures, like ancestors watching over younger generations. There is so much history here, in fact, that there are laws in place prohibiting the digging of deep foundations for homes, for fear that aggressive excavation will destroy as-yet-undiscovered archaeological sites.
　　Street vendors are an integral part of Kaifeng life, even working two “shifts.” The night market is known for its dozens of tasty treats, such as Tongzi chicken (a lightly spiced and salty cold dish) and Xiaolongbao (a delicacy said to resemble a Chinese lantern).
　　That moment when summer gives way to autumn is magical in any temperate locale, but Kaifeng knows how to bring on the fall with a flourish. Each autumn it plays host to the chrysanthemum festival, where a dizzying array of beautiful blooms can be found and purchased.
　　Spiritually, Kaifeng has been home to a number of different religions. Taoists, Buddhists, and Confucians have all founded major centers of thought, study, and worship. An ancient Jewish community once called Kaifeng home. Although records are all but lost, a stele remains in a local marketplace, and a few descendants survive. The Kaifeng Museum has an exhibit on the history of the city’s Jewish community.