Kaifeng was a traditional walled city, and much of the original wall — constructed of pounded earth — remains intact. The Fan Ta Pagoda is the oldest original structure in the city, dating to 977, and is known for its many small, carved Buddhas. From a distance, the walls simply appear to be done in relief or worn. But as you approach, it’s apparent that the surface is covered with intricate carvings.
　　Tie Ta, or the Iron Pagoda, is another notable site. Tie Ta is actually made mostly of wood and clay. It was originally erected in 982, in the Song Dynasty, and stretches 50 meters (164 feet) skyward. The name Iron Pagoda arose from a subsequent covering of glazed tiles in hues of reds, browns and grays, which from a distance give it a distinctly metallic appearance. The view of the city from inside the tower is spectacular.
　　If you like dragons, Kaifeng has a place for you. Longting, the Dragon Pavilion, is just to the northwest of the city. Affairs of state were conducted at the site when Kaifeng was a center for Chinese politics and culture. The building’s motif is dragons. Carved dragons, ornamental dragons and dragon reliefs dominate the architecture and fixtures. One of the most striking features of the site is an ornately carved staircase leading to the pinnacle. The center of the stair depicts intertwined dragons and detailed stone scrollwork.
　　The site also includes a wax museum, featuring likenesses of the emperors from the Song Dynasty, and several exhibits that commemorate the role Kaifeng played in ancient Chinese politics. On some days, actors dressed as emperors stage re-enactments at the building’s entrance. Your hotel’s concierge can provide a schedule of events.
　　A park is located within the grounds, and with a short walk you can reach the Wuchao Gate (the original site of the Song Dynasty imperial palace), Yang Lake and Pan Lake. According to local legend, Yang Lake, named after General Yangye, is always clean and Pan Lake, named after Premier Panmei, is always dirty. The general, according to legend, performed good deeds. The same cannot be said for the premier.
　　The Temple of Lord Bao is named after a Song Dynasty dignitary who served as a judge, and was known for his fairness, honesty and wisdom. The temple houses a statue of him that is nearly 10 feet tall and weighs in at nearly two and a half tons.
　　Xiangguo Temple is one of the most famous Buddhist temples in China. Like most buildings in Kaifeng, it was at its most splendid during the auspicious years of the Song Dynasty. Because Kaifeng was such an important location at that time, the temple was highly favored by the emperor. It was expanded and became the center of Buddhism for its time.
　　Among the many impressive pieces of statuary and artwork on display is a gold-leaf encrusted bodhisattva, called Guanyin. A bodhisattva is an enlightened soul that forsakes ascension to a higher plane to help others reach enlightenment. The statue of Guanyin has more than 1000 hands, each the site is an ornately carved staircase leading to the pinnacle. The center of the stair depicts intertwined dragons and detailed stone scrollwork.
　　The site also includes a wax museum, featuring likenesses of the emperors from the Song Dynasty, and several exhibits that commemorate the role Kaifeng played in ancient Chinese politics. On some days, actors dressed as emperors stage re-enactments at the building’s entrance. Your hotel’s concierge can provide a schedule of events.
　　A park is located within the grounds, and with a short walk you can reach the Wuchao Gate (the original site of the Song Dynasty imperial palace), Yang Lake and Pan Lake. According to local legend, Yang Lake, named after General Yangye, is always clean and Pan Lake, named after Premier Panmei, is always dirty. The general, according to legend, performed good deeds. The same cannot be said for the premier.
　　The Temple of Lord Bao is named after a Song Dynasty dignitary who served as a judge, and was known for his fairness, honesty and wisdom. The temple houses a statue of him that is nearly 10 feet tall and weighs in at nearly two and a half tons.
　　Xiangguo Temple is one of the most famous Buddhist temples in China. Like most buildings in Kaifeng, it was at its most splendid during the auspicious years of the Song Dynasty. Because Kaifeng was such an important location at that time, the temple was highly favored by the emperor. It was expanded and became the center of Buddhism for its time.
　　Among the many impressive pieces of statuary and artwork on display is a gold-leaf encrusted bodhisattva, called Guanyin. A bodhisattva is an enlightened soul that forsakes ascension to a higher plane to help others reach enlightenment. The statue of Guanyin has more than 1000 hands, each emblazoned with its own mystical eye.
　　Of great archaeological significance is the city of Yin, well north of Kaifeng almost at the Hebei border. The site dates back to between 1000 and 2000 BC and is sure to excite those who dabble in archaeology. Among the exhibits are oracle bones. In ancient times, questions were carved into bones and turtle shells, and then the items were cast into a fire. The answers to the questions were read in the cracks that formed as a result of exposure to the heat. Those cracks may well have inspired the modern form of Chinese calligraphy, which facilitated communication between the disparate early peoples who had similar, but not identical, spoken languages.
　　Kaifeng is the sister city to Wichita. For information on the Sister City program, visit the Wichita Area Sister Cities web page at http://www.wichitasistercities.org/.

　　While Kaifeng is the ancient capital of Henan, Zhengzhou is the modern one.
　　The city is an interesting contrast of tradition and modernization, with the battle for supremacy waged in small, subtle skirmishes. Industrialized areas are dotted with ancient buildings, fountains and statues. Traditional music is taught and sung in the shadows of factories and office parks. People cling to the old ways and display their rebellion against galloping modernity by hanging brightly patterned traditional curtains on stark, contemporary apartment windows, draping flags and banners over shop awnings and keeping herb and vegetable gardens in window boxes, patio planters and tiny gardens.
　　Zhengzhou marched along through the Bronze Age (roughly 3500 to 1200 BC) with the rest of the world, building foundries, erecting walled cities, constructing workshops, and creating religious sites. Many relics of that period can still be found.
　　In modern times, Zhengzhou has been host to industrial development. Only very recently has the focus swung toward tourism.
　　The Henan Provincial Museum, or Henan Sheng Bowuguan, houses several interesting exhibits and rare artifacts. One of the most unique pieces on display is a six-scale bone flute that is nearly 7,000 years old. It is the oldest playable instrument in the world.
　　The area’s greatest treasures, though, are its natural ones. Outside the urban areas, the Yellow River is as inspiring as it is mighty. Mount Yueshan and Mount Guanwushan sit in majestic lordship over the center of the scenic Yellow River region. Song Mountain, located near Zhengzhou, was declared a UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) International Geological Park in 2004. The picturesque mountainous region, long important to Chinese Zen Buddhists, has countless small peaks, waterfalls, valleys and caves, as well as pagodas, temples, shrines, statues and bridges.

　　Many of Luoyong’s most prominent tourist sites are a bit removed from the city itself. But the tourism bureau has taken that into account, and express buses are available to several sites.
　　Luoyang was at its most prominent and prosperous during the Song Dynasty. The histories of 10 great dynasties and of periods that predate the dynastic era are well-preserved in the Luoyang Bowuguan Museum, which houses several thousand artifacts, some of which date back as far as 4000 years.
　　Among the items showcased at the museum are many fine examples of Tang three-color glazed pottery, known throughout the world for its beauty and unusual appearance.
　　White Horse Temple is regarded as the birthplace of Chinese Buddhism, because it was where the first transcriptions of Sanskrit Buddhist texts into Chinese were done. The legend behind the temple says that two monks were sent by the emperor to India to learn about Buddhism. The texts proved to be too much for the two monks to carry back, so they enlisted the help of a white horse. The following year, the emperor ordered the temple built to honor the horse that carried the sutras. The temple site consists of several individual halls, terraces and pagodas. One pagoda is reported to have some unusual acoustic properties that make it reflect noise like the sound of croaking frogs.
　　The crown jewel of Henan tourism is the Longmen Caves, an awesome spectacle of Buddhist art and culture. The complex houses more than 100,000 statues and images in 40 pagodas, 1,300 grottoes and 700 niches. Nearly 3,000 inscriptions are carved in stone, with most of the statuary and engravings having been sponsored by noblemen of the Tang and Song Dynasties. The winding dusty stone pathways snake through the canyon, with each turn revealing a stunning new vista. Each chamber has a unique character and appearance, along with its own set of carvings and statuary. One chamber has a giant lotus flower carved in the center of the ceiling, while another features a statue of Buddha with lions curled at his feet. The figures range almost 60 feet in height to statuettes in miniature. The site was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2000. That was not soon enough to save all of the statues, but the site remains a must-see attraction.